How to get rid of horseweed in lawn

Every product is independently reviewed and selected by our editors. If you buy something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission at no extra cost to you.

If you’ve spotted tall, wiry stems popping up above your grass sometimes almost overnight you’re probably dealing with horseweed. I’ve battled it in my own backyard lawn, especially after rainy weeks when the soil stays moist. Beginners often try to pull it out by hand, only to find it snaps off and grows right back.

Horseweed spreads aggressively by wind‑blown seeds, and once it matures, it becomes much harder to remove. The good news is that with the right timing and approach, you can get rid of horseweed in your lawn and keep it from coming back.

Here’s a practical, experience-based guide to help you do it safely and effectively.

Why Horseweed Takes Over Lawns

Horseweed (also called marestail) thrives because:

  • It germinates in both fall and spring, giving it multiple chances to establish.
  • Its long taproot makes it difficult to pull cleanly once mature.
  • It loves disturbed or compacted soil, which many lawns unintentionally provide.
  • One plant can produce 200,000+ windborne seeds, spreading across an entire yard.

In my lawn, it showed up most where grass was thin or stressed horseweed loves bare patches and nutrient-poor soil.

Understanding these habits makes it easier to pick the right removal method.

What You’ll Need Actually

You don’t need anything fancy. Here are realistic options:

  • Hand weeder, hori-hori knife, or dandelion fork
  • Mulch or compost for thin lawn patches
  • Hose or watering can
  • Organic lawn fertilizer
  • Optional: selective broadleaf herbicide labeled for horseweed
  • Gloves (the stems can be irritating when mature)

Eco-friendly choices:

  • Use a vinegar-based herbicide for spot-treating non-lawn areas
  • Add compost to improve soil health and crowd out weeds naturally

Step-by-Step: How to Get Rid of Horseweed in Lawn

1. Remove Horseweed While It’s Young

If the plant is still in its rosette stage (flat, ground-hugging leaves), remove it immediately.

Steps:

  • Water the area lightly moist soil helps the taproot slide out.
  • Slide a hand weeder or knife straight down next to the root.
  • Pry upward gently while pulling the plant.
  • Make sure the taproot comes out in one piece.

If the root snaps, it often regrows.

2. Mow Before It Flowers

If horseweed has already bolted (grown tall), mowing helps prevent seed production.

  • Mow before the flower heads open and release seeds.
  • Bag the clippings to avoid contaminating your lawn.
  • Mowing alone won’t kill horseweed but stops it from spreading.

3. Apply a Selective Lawn-Safe Herbicide (If Needed)

For mature plants with thick stems, hand-pulling becomes unreliable.

Use a selective broadleaf herbicide labeled for lawns and horseweed. Look for products containing:

  • 2,4-D
  • Dicamba
  • MCPP
  • Triclopyr (stronger option)

Apply:

  • On a dry day
  • When temperatures are below 85°F
  • When no rain is expected for 24 hours

This prevents accidental lawn burn and improves absorption.

4. Repair Bare Spots

Horseweed returns where grass is weak.

After removal:

  • Rake the soil lightly.
  • Add a thin layer of compost.
  • Reseed with a grass variety suited to your climate.
  • Water daily until established.

Thick, healthy grass is the best long-term weed prevention.

5. Improve Soil Conditions

Horseweed loves compacted, low-nutrient soil. What helped most in my lawn was:

  • Aerating once per year
  • Adding compost in spring
  • Fertilizing lightly with a slow-release, organic product
  • Watering deeply but infrequently

Stronger grass outcompetes horseweed naturally.

Professional Tips & Best Practices

  • The younger the horseweed, the easier it is to remove.
  • Never let it flower once it spreads seeds, your battle restarts.
  • Don’t yank mature stems; they almost always snap and regrow.
  • In thin lawns, overseed twice a year.
  • Avoid disturbing soil unnecessarily; exposed soil invites horseweed.

Common beginner mistake: Spraying mature horseweed with vinegar or weak herbicides it often survives and becomes tougher.

FAQ

Why does horseweed keep coming back in my lawn? You likely have thin turf or compacted soil where horseweed seeds easily establish.

Can I pull horseweed by hand? Yes only when young. Mature plants have deep taproots that often break.

Is horseweed harmful to pets or kids? The plant itself isn’t toxic, but mature stems can be sharp. Remove mature plants to avoid injuries.

What time of year should I remove horseweed? Fall and early spring are ideal because the plants are still in the easy-to-pull rosette stage.

Can I use natural methods to kill it? Yes, but not in lawn areas. Vinegar or boiling water kills grass too. Use them only along edges, driveways, or sidewalks.

When NOT to Use Certain Methods

Avoid the following:

  • Vinegar sprays on the lawn (kills grass)
  • Pulling when soil is dry (roots snap easily)
  • Using non-selective herbicides like glyphosate on turf

If you’re in drought conditions, wait until you can water the area; stressed grass won’t recover well from weed removal.

Alternative Approaches

If you want other options:

1. Mulching Around Borders Prevents horseweed seed from germinating in garden beds.

2. Smothering Bare Areas Use cardboard + mulch to suffocate weeds (not for lawn sections).

3. Lawn Conversion If horseweed keeps returning and the lawn is mostly bare, overseeding with a hardy grass mixture may be the most efficient fix.

Conclusion

Learning how to get rid of horseweed in lawn is mostly about timing and consistent lawn care. Remove it early, prevent flowering, use a selective herbicide when necessary, and keep your grass thick and healthy. Once I started patching bare spots and improving soil, horseweed stopped showing up almost entirely.

Take it step by step, stay patient, and your lawn will become stronger and far less welcoming to weeds each season.