Every product is independently reviewed and selected by our editors. If you buy something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission at no extra cost to you.
If you’ve ever walked across your lawn or garden beds and felt soft, spongy patches or noticed plants wilting for no clear reason you may be dealing with grubs. I first discovered them years ago when pulling up a struggling lettuce plant and finding several curled, creamy-white larvae chewing on the roots.
Grubs (the larvae of beetles like Japanese beetles, June beetles, or chafer beetles) feed on plant roots, causing stunted growth, sudden wilting, and soil that lifts up like loose carpet. The good news: you can get rid of grubs in the garden naturally using methods that target the larvae without harming soil life, pets, or pollinators.
These natural solutions have worked consistently in my home garden after testing them across both raised beds and small backyard lawns.
Why Natural Grub Control Works Perfectly
Natural grub management focuses on:
- Strengthening soil biology so harmful pests don’t dominate
- Using predators (nematodes, birds, beneficial insects) instead of chemicals
- Changing moisture and habitat conditions that grubs rely on
- Targeting the vulnerable larval stage, not just the adult beetles
Healthy soil with balanced microbial life rarely suffers major grub outbreaks. In my garden, the more I improved compost and moisture balance, the fewer grubs I found each season.
What Materials Actually You’ll Need
- Beneficial nematodes (Heterorhabditis bacteriophora recommended)
- Neem oil or neem cake
- A hose or watering can
- Compost or compost tea
- Milky spore powder (for Japanese beetles)
- Gloves
- A garden fork or trowel
Budget-friendly alternatives:
- Hand-picking grubs when gardening
- Encouraging birds naturally with feeders or water
- Applying soapy water flushes
Eco-safety note: The methods below are safe for kids, pets, pollinators, and soil organisms when used correctly.
Step-by-Step Instructions of How to Get Rid of Grubs in Garden Naturally
1. Confirm You Actually Have Grubs
Before treating, check a small section of soil.
- Dig 3–4 inches deep.
- If you find 5+ grubs in a square foot, you have an infestation.
- If you find only 1–2, natural monitoring might be enough.
2. Apply Beneficial Nematodes (Best All-Around Natural Solution)
This is the most effective method I’ve used in real gardens.
- Buy Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematodes (grub-specific).
- Apply in early morning or evening when the soil is cool.
- Water the area first, apply nematodes, then water again.
- Keep soil moist for 7–10 days so they can move through the soil.
I saw a major grub reduction within 3–4 weeks.
3. Use Neem Oil or Neem Cake in Soil
Neem disrupts larvae feeding.
- Mix a small amount of neem oil into water (follow the label).
- Water it into the top 3–4 inches of soil.
For longer-term prevention:
- Add neem cake to beds before planting.
This works slowly but safely.
4. Apply Milky Spore (Japanese Beetles Only)
Milky spore infects only Japanese beetle grubs.
- Apply as a powder to soil following package instructions.
- Works best when soil temps are 60–70°F.
- Builds up for long-term control (takes 1–3 years to peak).
5. Encourage Natural Predators
In my backyard, birds handle about half my grub problems. Attract them by adding:
- Birdbaths
- Feeders
- Small bushes or cover cropping for habitat
Other helpers:
- Ground beetles
- Parasitic wasps
- Nematodes (already covered)
6. Use Soapy Water Flushes for Quick Reduction
For raised beds or small areas:
- Mix 2 tablespoons of mild soap into 1 gallon of water.
- Pour over the affected bed.
- Grubs come to the surface within minutes.
- Pick them out by hand.
This is a fast rescue method if plants are wilting.
7. Improve Soil Health to Prevent Future Infestations
Healthy soil naturally rejects grub overpopulation. Add:
- Regular compost
- Leaf mold
- Compost tea
- Mulch layers
I’ve found that grub problems decrease dramatically after a year of consistent soil improvement.
Professional Tips & Best Practices
- Apply nematodes when soil is above 50°F; cold soil slows their movement.
- Don’t let containers or raised beds dry out during treatment.
- Avoid synthetic pesticides—they kill the beneficial predators that keep grubs in check.
- Water deeply but less frequently. Overly wet soil attracts egg-laying beetles.
- Don’t apply neem when pollinators are actively visiting flowering plants.
- Rotate crops—grubs often thrive in undisturbed soil under the same plants each year.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are my plants wilting even though I water them?
Grubs may be eating the roots. Check the soil by digging near the wilted plant.
Can I get rid of grubs naturally without harming bees?
Yes. Nematodes, milky spore, soil improvement, and hand-picking are completely bee-safe.
How often should I apply beneficial nematodes?
Once per year is usually enough. In heavy infestations, apply again after 6 months.
Will chickens or birds eat grubs?
Absolutely. Chickens, robins, and blackbirds love them. Allowing birds access helps a lot.
Can grubs live in potted plants?
Yes. They often arrive through contaminated potting mix. Same treatments apply.
Does dish soap kill grubs?
It forces them to surface, making removal easier, but isn’t a long-term solution.
When NOT to Use Certain Methods
- Avoid milky spore unless you specifically have Japanese beetles—it won’t help with other grubs.
- Don’t use neem oil in full sun or during high heat; it can burn plants.
- Nematodes won’t work in cold soil (below 50°F) or drought conditions.
- Soapy water flushes are not ideal for very dry soil or delicate seedlings.
If you’re unsure which grub species you have, nematodes are the safest broad-spectrum approach.
Alternative Methods or Solutions
Manual Removal
Pros: Free, instant Cons: Labor-intensive; only practical for small beds
Flooding With Water
Pros: Forces grubs to surface Cons: Can cause root rot; not ideal for clay soil
Chickens or Ducks
Pros: Extremely effective Cons: Not suitable for all backyards or neighborhoods
Organic Insecticides (Spinosad, pyrethrin)
Pros: Quick results Cons: Should be used sparingly; may affect beneficial insects
For most home gardeners, nematodes + soil improvement is the best long-term strategy.
Conclusion
Learning how to get rid of grubs in the garden naturally is one of the most valuable skills for keeping your beds healthy, especially in small spaces where plant loss hits hard. By combining biological controls like nematodes with simple soil improvements and natural predators, you can break the cycle safely and sustainably.