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Many new gardeners plant rhubarb with the excitement of pulling those first tart red stalks but then hear the confusing advice: “Don’t harvest your rhubarb in the first year.”
When I planted my first crown in my small backyard garden, I didn’t understand why leaving it alone mattered so much. But after seeing how dramatically my second-year plants outpaced the first-year ones I had accidentally stressed, I learned exactly why this rule exists.
If you’re wondering what to do with first-year rhubarb, the answer is simple: focus on building a strong root system, not harvesting stalks. This guide walks you through exactly how to care for rhubarb in its first year so you get heavy, sustainable harvests for the next decade or more.
Why This Method Works
Rhubarb is a perennial that stores energy in its roots. In the first year, the crown is still establishing itself underground.
Here’s what’s happening below the soil:
- The plant is developing thick, fleshy roots that power next year’s growth.
- Leaves generate energy for root development.
- Harvesting stalks too early reduces the plant’s ability to store energy, leading to weak growth or even plant failure.
In real gardens, first-year rhubarb that’s left untouched in year one comes back the following spring with noticeably thicker stalks and more vigorous foliage.
What You’ll Need
Caring for first-year rhubarb doesn’t require much, but these items help:
- Compost or well-rotted manure
- Organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or pine needles)
- Watering can or hose with a gentle spray head
- Hand fork or garden trowel
- Optional: slug barriers or organic slug bait (if slugs are an issue)
Eco-friendly options:
- Homemade compost instead of manure
- Leaf mulch collected from your own yard
What to Do With First-Year Rhubarb (Step-by-Step)
1. Do Not Harvest Any Stalks
This is the most important rule. Even if the stalks look big enough, leave them.
Healthy first-year rhubarb may grow:
- Large umbrella-like leaves
- Thick, juicy-looking stalks
It’s tempting, but don’t cut them. Let the plant feed itself.
2. Water Deeply, Not Frequently
Rhubarb prefers consistent moisture but hates soggy soil. In my garden, watering once or twice a week is enough unless there’s extreme heat.
Guidelines:
- Water at the base, not on the leaves
- Keep soil evenly moist
- Let the top inch of soil dry between waterings
If you’re in a hot, dry climate, consider adding mulch to conserve moisture.
3. Mulch Around the Base
A 2–3 inch layer of mulch keeps the soil cool, moist, and weed-free.
Good mulches:
- Straw
- Shredded leaves
- Pine needles
- Compost
Avoid piling mulch directly against the crown leave an inch of space so it doesn’t rot.
4. Remove Flower Stalks Immediately
If the plant sends up a tall, alien-looking flower stalk, snap or cut it off at the base.
Flowering diverts energy away from root building. This sometimes happens due to:
- Stress
- Heat
- Young crowns trying to reproduce early
Removing the flower keeps the plant focused on vegetative growth.
5. Keep Weeds Away
Rhubarb hates root competition. Use shallow hand-weeding to avoid disturbing the crown.
6. Add a Light Feeding in Mid-Summer
First-year plants appreciate a gentle nutrient boost.
Use one of the following:
- A thin layer of compost around the plant
- A small amount of organic all-purpose fertilizer
- Compost tea
Avoid high-nitrogen chemical fertilizers they can burn young plants.
7. Let the Plant Die Back Naturally in Fall
Don’t cut stalks while they’re still green. Allowing natural die-back returns nutrients to the crown.
Once the leaves fully collapse and brown:
- Remove the mushy foliage to reduce pest and disease issues.
- Re-mulch the crown for winter protection, especially in cold climates.
Pro Tips & Best Practices
- In containers, rhubarb dries out faster check moisture more often.
- Don’t bury the crown too deeply; it prefers shallow planting.
- Avoid planting rhubarb in waterlogged soil it quickly rots.
- If your summers are scorching, provide light afternoon shade.
- Keep pets and children away from leaves they’re toxic.
Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid
- Harvesting “just one stalk” still too stressful for the plant.
- Leaving flower stalks on these weaken the crown.
- Heavy fertilizing rhubarb is not a hungry feeder in year one.
- Planting it in a high-traffic area rhubarb hates root disturbance.
FAQ
Why can’t I harvest first-year rhubarb?
Because the plant needs all its energy to build strong roots that support future harvests.
What if my first-year rhubarb already looks huge?
Even large plants need the full year to establish. Size doesn’t mean the roots are mature yet.
Can I harvest just a couple of stalks?
No. Partial harvesting still stresses the crown. Wait until year two.
How often should I water first-year rhubarb?
Usually once or twice a week, depending on rainfall and heat. Keep soil evenly moist.
My plant is flowering what should I do?
Cut the flower stalk at the base immediately to prevent energy loss.
Can rhubarb grow in containers in the first year?
Yes, but choose a large pot (at least 15–20 gallons) and water more frequently.
When NOT to Follow This Method
Avoid establishing rhubarb:
- In full shade (it needs at least 4–6 hours of sun)
- In heavy clay without soil improvement
- In very hot climates without summer shade
- In raised beds that dry out too quickly unless well-mulched
If your soil stays soggy, rhubarb can rot improve drainage first.
Alternative Methods or Solutions
Dividing a mature crown instead of starting with a young one
- Pros: You can begin harvesting lightly in year two.
- Cons: Requires access to a mature plant and more physical effort.
Growing rhubarb in large containers
- Pros: Great for patios and balconies.
- Cons: Needs more water and careful fertilizing.
Planting rhubarb in partial shade
- Pros: Useful in hot climates.
- Cons: Stalks may be greener and slower to grow.
Conclusion
If you’re wondering what to do with first-year rhubarb, the answer is simple: give it a full year to build strong roots and keep it healthy.
No harvesting. Consistent watering. Regular mulching.