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If you’ve ever spotted a bright yellow-green clump growing faster than the rest of your lawn, you’ve likely met one of the most stubborn lawn weeds around: nutsedge. I’ve battled it in both my backyard and a small side lawn, and it always seems to return right when you think you’ve beaten it.
Nutsedge isn’t a grass at all it’s a sedge, and that difference is exactly why standard weed killers, mowing, and hand-pulling rarely work. It grows from tiny underground nutlets (tubers), spreads aggressively in wet or compacted soil, and bounces back unless you use the right method.
This guide explains how to get rid of nutsedge grass using practical, proven steps I’ve tested in real lawns not theoretical textbook advice.
Why This Method Works
Nutsedge survives because of three biological advantages:
- It has three-sided stems, not round ones like grass, making it tougher and more upright.
- It spreads using deep rhizomes and nutlets that can sprout even if the plant is removed.
- It thrives in wet, compacted, or poorly drained soil, where normal turf weakens.
The strategy below tackles nutsedge using a combination of:
- Proper identification,
- Correct timing,
- Selective nutsedge killers that reach the nutlets, and
- Soil corrections so it doesn’t return.
This approach has kept my lawn nutsedge-free for two seasons straight.
What Materials You’ll Need
Basic tools and materials:
- Gloves
- Hand weeder or hori-hori knife
- Selective sedge herbicide (e.g., halosulfuron/Permit, sulfentrazone/SedgeHammer or Ortho Nutsedge Killer)
- Pump sprayer or hose-end sprayer
- Grass seed (if treating cool-season lawns)
- Compost or soil mix for fixing drainage
- Optional: mulching materials for garden beds
Eco-safe alternatives (for small patches):
- Vinegar-based organic weed killer (burns tops only; not permanent)
- Thick mulch (3–4 inches) for beds
Step-by-Step: How to Get Rid of Nutsedge Grass
1. Identify Nutsedge Before Treating
Look for:
- Bright yellow-green color
- Triangular stem (roll it between your fingers—sedges have edges)
- Leaves growing in sets of three, not two
- Faster vertical growth than surrounding turf
- Shiny, waxy leaves
Early identification makes treatment faster and cheaper.
2. Treat Nutsedge When It’s Young and Actively Growing
The best timing is:
- Late spring through mid-summer, when nutsedge is growing fast
- When plants are 4–6 inches tall (enough leaf surface to absorb herbicide)
- When temperatures are stable (not extreme heat or drought)
Treating too early or too late reduces effectiveness.
3. Use a Selective Sedge Herbicide (This Is the Key Step)
You NEED a herbicide labeled for sedges not a general weed killer.
The most effective herbicides I’ve used:
- Halosulfuron (SedgeHammer, Prosedge)
- Sulfentrazone (Ortho Nutsedge Killer, Dismiss)
How to apply:
- Mix according to label directions.
- Spray only the nutsedge, not the entire lawn if possible.
- Avoid mowing for 2 days before and after treatment.
- Water lightly if the label recommends it (varies by product).
You should see:
- Yellowing within 7 days
- Browning and collapse within 14–21 days
A second treatment after 4–6 weeks is often needed for established patches.
4. Fix the Soil Conditions That Allowed Nutsedge In
Nutsedge thrives in wet, compacted soil.
From experience, simply killing the plants isn’t enough you must correct conditions or it returns.
Fixes that work:
- Improve drainage in low spots with compost or sand/topsoil blends
- Aerate compacted areas
- Reduce overwatering or shorten irrigation cycles
- Repair broken sprinklers that oversaturate one area
- For garden beds: use drip irrigation instead of overhead watering
The goal is to make your lawn less “nutsedge-friendly.”
5. Reseed or Patch Bare Spots
After removal, nutsedge-free soil is a blank invitation for new weeds.
Steps:
- Loosen soil 1–2 inches deep.
- Mix in compost.
- Overseed with a dense turf grass (bluegrass, fescue, or rye depending on your region).
- Water lightly but consistently until established.
A thick, healthy lawn naturally suppresses nutsedge.
Professional Tips & Best Practices
- Spot spray instead of blanket spraying to protect beneficial turf.
- Don’t pull nutsedge when it’s tall and mature you’ll leave nutlets behind.
- Aim spray on a dry day with no rain for 24 hours.
- Don’t scalp your lawn; short turf encourages nutsedge growth.
- Mulch garden beds heavily nutsedge struggles under dense organic mulch.
Common Beginner Mistakes
- Using Roundup/ glyphosate (kills grass but NOT the nutlets).
- Watering too often (nutsedge loves damp soil).
- Pulling nutsedge after it develops nutlets this spreads it.
- Mowing low, causing stress in turf and giving nutsedge a foothold.
FAQ
Why does nutsedge keep coming back?
Because the underground nutlets can sprout for several years if not treated with the right herbicide.
Can I pull nutsedge by hand?
Only when the plant is still young (no nutlets yet). Mature plants will regrow from the tubers.
How long does nutsedge take to die after spraying?
Typically 1–3 weeks depending on the herbicide and plant maturity.
What’s the difference between yellow and purple nutsedge?
Purple nutsedge is more aggressive and has darker seedheads, but both require the same herbicide treatment.
Is nutsedge harmful to pets or kids?
The plant itself isn’t harmful, but keep pets and kids away from freshly sprayed areas until dry.
When NOT to Use Chemical Control
Avoid chemical treatment if:
- A large section of lawn is stressed from heat or drought
- Soil is completely waterlogged or flooded
- You’re treating edible garden beds (use mulch or digging instead)
- Pets or wildlife can reach wet spray
In these cases, physical removal and soil correction are safer.
Alternative Methods
Organic / Manual Methods
- Deep digging (removing nutlets) works for small clumps only.
- Solarization (plastic cover for 8–12 weeks) kills sedges in garden beds.
- Heavy mulch suppresses sedges where turf isn’t present.
Pre-emergent Herbicides
Limited effectiveness nutsedge nutlets don’t behave like grass seeds.
Long-Term Soil Fixing
Still the most reliable, sustainable solution for preventing return.
Conclusion
Learning how to get rid of nutsedge grass comes down to three things: identify early, treat with a sedge-specific herbicide, and fix the soil conditions that let it take hold. In my own lawn, this combination has been far more effective than relying on weed killers alone.
Stay patient nutsedge is persistent, but with the right approach, you can absolutely get rid of it and keep it from returning.